Collar, neckband, or other garment part



l March 19,1935.

E. LIND ET AL COLLAR, NECKBAND, OR OTHERGARMENT PART Filed July 26, 1954 INVENTORS. EDWA RD L. IN D. DAV/D FE/GENBAU/V/ ATTORNEY.

Patented Mar. .19', 1935,Y

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Edward Lind and David Feigenbaum,

New York, N. Y.

Application July 26, 1934, Serial No. 737,068

4 Claims. (Cl. 2-143) This invention relates to collars (attached and unattached) neckbands and cuffs, for association or associated with garments such as, for example, mens outer shirts, and to the method of making them.

It is an object of the present invention to provide articles of the aforementioned class which are constructed of such materials and treated in such manner as to present the appearance of being starched without in anywise excessively stiifening the fabrics composing the article by starching substances generally used forthe purpose; which will not rumple or wilt from moisture or perspiration and other offensive means when Worn close to the body, thereby always retaining its shape and preserving its neat appearance and beingY comfortable and free from wrinkle, curl or crush even under very trying usage; and which can be cleansed by ordinary washing, and laundered and made presentable without starching.

Article made in accordance with our invention retain their porous and absorbent qualities, have that starchy, good-looking appearance without undesirable stillness and discomfort, and will not cling to the body of the wearer in an uncomfortable manner. When laundered without starch, such articles will retain the desired finish, shape and form and will be free from undesirable folds and creases.

Collars (both of the attached and separate type), neckbands and ,cuffs for shirts, of the better grade are made up of three-ply material, namely, inner ply, outer ply and intermediate ply, the latter usually termed the interlining. The interlining heretofore used in the construction of such articles comprised a shrunk heavy, coarse fabric, having comparatively large textural interstiees to retain the starch to stiffen the article and give it body when laundered.

. The use of the coarse and heavy interlining material together with the starch constituent gives the article a board-like stiffness, with sawtoothed'edges and the article lacks softness, exibility and pliability. The article appears hard, stiff and comparatively bulgy, and easily wrinkles, curls, and crushes, and becomes limp and soiled from moisture of perspiration, thereby appearing ugly and adding to the discomfort of the wearer. Again an article so constructed, during laundering becomes easily damaged and the wear and treatment lto which it is subjected during the laundry operations limits to a considerable degree The starch lls in the spaces in the coarse meshed interlining material and when the interlining becomes moistened through water or moisture of perspiration the starch dissolves and the article becomes limp, wrinkled and soiled, this being particularly so' at the fold lines of the '5 article. Furthermore, in using such coarser fabric interlining in a 'collar or neckband, since the material is folded over at the seam lines, the folded over edges and around the seam lines appear bulgy, lacking that smoothness and con- 10 tinuity requisite in a well-appearing article of that class.

Such coarse interlining, even when treated with stiffening materials other than starch,

would make the collar or neckband bulgy in ap-` v pearance and uncomfortable for the wearer. Hence, the material selected as an interlining becomes an important factor in the making of a exible, comfortable and good-looking article of the class referred to. f

We have found that by using an interlining made from a light weight, fine yarn cloth of a count between approximately 68 x 72 and 96 x 100 threads to the square inch, such as, for example, fabric, commonly known as print cloth, and coating both sides of the said interlining with a suitable waterproof, elastic or flexible agent, a medium 'or instrumentality is provided which when fused to the outer and inner plies of the article by the simple application of a warm iron, imparts to the article all the desirable attributes and characteristics stated hereinabove, and rids the article of all the hereinbefore mentioned disadvantages.

Therefore, it is a further object of this invention to provide an article, such as a foldedover collar, neckband or cuff which will remain unwrinkled and retain its shape and form at al1 times, regardless of becoming moist due to perspiration or water, which can be easily laundered `by merely washing and ironing, and which will not present an unsightly or bulgy appearance at the fold-over lines and seams, this being brought about by the utilization of a novel interlining prepared and treated in a particular manner.

This invention accordingly consists in the features of construction, combination o f parts and in the unique relations of the members and in the relative proportioning and disposition -there of; al1 as more completely outlined herein. 50

To enable others skilled in the art so fully t'o comprehend the underlying features thereof that they may embody the same by the numerous modifications in structure and relation contemplated by this invention, drawings depicting certain forms of the invention have been annexed as a part of this disclosure, and in such drawings, like characters of reference denote corresponding parts throughout all the views, of which:

Fig. 1 is a view showing a collar. made in accordance with this invention and applied to a shirt, indicating the smoothness thereof.

Fig. 2 is a view of a shirt for designating the location of parts hereinafter referred to.

Fig. 3 is a sectional view'taken through an attached collar showing the interlining, forming part of this invention, passing over the edge only.

Fig. 4 is a sectional View taken through a detachable collar with the said interlining being shown Within the entire collar.

Fig. 5 is a sectional view take-n through an attached collar showing the said interlining in the neckband and passing over the edge.

Fig. 6 is a sectional view of a cuff embodying and employing the invention.

Fig. 7 is a sectional view of a neckband embodying and employing the invention.

In the drawings, (Fig. 3), the numeral 10 represents a shirt of usual manufacture, having a neckband l1 and a turned-down or fold-over collar portion 12. The fold-over portion 12 comprises an outer ply 13, an inner ply 14, and an interlining 15.

The interlining which forms an important feature of the invention will be described fully later on. The interlining in Fig. 3 is' indicated as passing over edge 16 of the collar, and folded over at the seam S of the collar.

In Fig. 4, the interlining 17 is shown as being located between outer and inner plies 18, 19, respectively, and turned over the edge of the collar at 20. The interlining 17 is folded over at the seam line S. The neckband 21 comprises the plies 22, 23 between which is located the interlining 24. This interlining is folded over at the seams S.

In Fig. 5, the fold-over top of the collar consists of the inner and outer plies 25, 26, only, but the neckband portion 27, ofthe collar has the interlining 30 between the plies 28, 29, the said interlining passing over the top edge of the collar as indicated at v31, and being folded over at the seam S.

Fig. 6 shows the invention applied to a cuff 32, the interlining 33 being located between the outer and inner plies, and being folded over at the seams S". l

Fig. 'l shows the invention applied to the neckband for a shirt for use with a separate collar.

The interlining 34 between thev two plies 35, 36, has its edges folded over at the seams Se, Sb.

In the usual collar, neckband or cuff, the interlining comprises a substantially heavy, coarse, shrunk interlining, the coarseness being 'required to take the starch'or other stiffening materiaLo On account of the interlining being coarse, the fold-over portions of the article, particularly at the seams, present a bulgy appearance and the article frequently lack smoothness; also the coarseness of the interlining prevents the article from being pliable or flexible, but on the other hand easily wrinkles especially when starched.

Since the plies at the seams S, S', S", Sa, Sb, are folded over it becomes essential to keep the thickness at these points at a minimum. It is further essential to keep the interstices between the threads of the interlining at a minimum as this materially aids in making the article flexible and free from wrinkles when treated with the stiffenen This cannot eiciently be accomplished by using the usual coarse interlining.

The interlining used inthis invention, is a fme yarn, light weight fabric, such as, for example, prnt cloth, completely coated on both sides with arflexible, waterproof cementitious y material. We have found that by treating a ne yarn, light weight cloth having av mesh of substantially, say, 68 x 72 or 96 x 100 threads to the square inch, or thereabout or therebetween, and coated on both sides with a flexible, waterproof, cementitious substance, an interlining is provided which has just the desired stiffness, yet remaining soft, and which is flexible and, pliable, and when fused to the outer and inner plies keeps the collar smooth and the edges free from bulginess.

By reason of the fact that the exible, waterproof, cementitious substance does not penetrate or impregnate the interlining (by reason of the ne mesh) but remains on the surfaces thereof, the softness, and flexibility of the article is not impaired.

The interlining is treated its full length and width including the seam lines, so that the flexible, waterproof cementitious substance also appears at the seams and fold over lines and particularly at the parts ofthe collar, neckband,l

or cuff which come in close contact with the body and thereby subjected to moistureof perspiration, and the article will thus be prevented from wilting or wrinkling.

As an example of producing 'a collar, cuff, or neckband according to our invention, we take print cloth having a mesh of say, 80x80 threads to the square inch and cut it to shape for utilization as an interlining for the article intended and coat both sides completely with the flexible, waterproof, cementitious substance. which we have found very suitable for the purpose, comprises a solution of cellulose acetate, methyl cellulsolve, acetone and pure gum cam-` phor. The cellulose acetate is the solid whic resists perspiration and water and holds the body (stiifens) in place of starch; the methyl ce1- lulsolve is the adhesive or binder; the acetone is the thinner of the solution; and the pure gum camphor is the plastic or softener and produces the pliability.

The above interlining with the said coating on both sides is fused to the inner and outer plies by the simple application of a warm iron, the whole presenting a unitary structure, and once being fused together the plies and interlining will not separate during laundering'or otherwise. l'I'he article will not wilt, wrinkle or crease after washing and only requires a warm iron to smooth it out. The article will be stiff enough to prevent wrinkling and still maintain a certain softness necessary to the comfort of the wearer.

It is believed from the above description that those skilled in the art will have no difficulty in understanding the construction, the method of use and operation of the device herein disclosed and a detailed discussion thereof is unnecessary. The invention is of simple and practical construction and is adaptedto accomplish among others all of the objects and'advantages herein set forth.

Without further anaylsis, the foregoing will so fully reveal the gist of this invention that others can by applying current knowledge readily adapt it for various applications without omitting cer- A coating tain features, that, from the standpoint of the prior art, fairly constitute essential characteristics of the generic or s peciilc aspects of thlsinvention, and therefore, such adaptations should and are intended to be comprehended .within the meaning and range of equivalency of.' the following claims:

We claim: f

l. A folded article of wearing apparel comprising plies of material, and an interlining between the plies and extending over the fold line thereof,

said interlining comprising a sheet of closely woven textile materialhavingacoating or coatings thereon uniting it to an adjacent ply or plies at least at the fold line, whereby the article is flexibly stiffened at least at the fold line Without appreciable bulkiness. y

2. A folded article of wearing apparel comprising fabric plies, and an interlining between the plies and extending over the fold line thereof, said interlining comprising a sheet of woven textile material so closely woven as to receive a coating of cellulosic material on a surface thereof, said sheet having a cellulosic coating of cementitious material on one or both surfaces thereof uniting its entire surface or surfaces to an adjacent ply or plies, whereby the article is flexibly stifrnea at least at the fom une without appreciable bulkiness. l

3, A folded article of wearing apparel comprising plies of material'havingan interlining therebetween extending over the fold line thereof, said interlining comprising a sheet of textile material having a weave of between approximately 68 x 4'l2 and 96 x 100 threads to the square inch and having a uniting coating or coatings on one or both sides thereof at least at the fold line, whereby the article is flexibly stiffened atleast at the fold lin without appreciable blkiness.

4. A folded article of wearing apparel comprising.- fabric plies having an interlining therebetween extending over the fold line thereof, said interlining comprising a sheet of Vwoven textile material having a weave of between approximately 68 x '72 and 96 x 100 threads to the square inch and having thermoplastic coatings on opposite sides thereofuniting approximately its entire surfaces to the 'adjacent plies including the fold line, whereby the article is flexibly stiffened at least at the-fold line without appreciable bulkiness. EDWARD LIND.

DAVID FEIGENBAUM.

4 DISCLAIMER 1,995,187 .-Edward Lind and David Fcige'nlbcu-m., New York, N. Y. COLLAR, Niemi- BAND, 0R OTHER GARMENT PART. Patent dated March 19, 1935.v Dis claimer filed June 11, 1937, by the patentees.

Hereby enter this disclaimer to so much of claim A1 of said Letters VPatent. as is in excess of the following:

A foldedcollar comprising fabric plies of textile material, and an interlming bctween the plies and extending over the fold line thereof, said Vinterlining comprising a sheet of light weight, closelyr woven textile material having a thermoplastic, waterproof, cementitious coating or coatings thereon extending over substantially the entire surface of each side of the interlining and uniting substantially the entire surface ofcarlr side thereof to an adjacent ply or plies and at least at the fold line of the collar, whereby the collar is flexibly stiffened atleast at the foldgline without'appreciablc bul-kincss.

and also hereby enter this disclaimer to so much of claim 2 of said Letters Patent as in excess of the following:

A folded collar comprising fabric plies of textile material, and an interllning lwtween the plies and extending over the fold line thereof,said interlining.comprsnix :l sheet of light Weight, Woven' textile material so closely woven as to receive a thcrmoplastic, waterproof, cementitious coating of cellulosic material on a surface thereof,

said sheet having a thermoplastic, waterproof, cellulosic coating of cemcntitious material on both surfaces thereof uniting its entire surfaces `to each'of ,thead jacent plies andat least at the fold line of the collar, whereby the collar is flexibly stifiened at least at the fold line Without appreciable bulkiness..

and also hereby enter this disclaimer to so much of claim 3 of said Letters 'Patent as is I in excess of the following: I A

A folded collar comprising fabric plies of textile material havinganmterlming therebetween extending over the fold line thereof, said interlining comprising asheet of light weight, textile material having a'weave of between approximately -68 x 72 and 96 x 100 threads to the square inch and having. auniting thermoplastic, waterproof coating or coatings on both' sides thereof and extending over substantially the entire.

surface of each side and at least at the fold line and serving to unite approximately the entire surface of each side thereof tean adjacent ply and at least at the fold line of the collar, whereby-the collar is flexiblystiffen'ed at least at the fold line Without appreciable bulkines's. i

and also hereby enter this disclaimer toso much of claim 4 of said Letters latent as is inexcess of the following: .Y

A folded collar comprising fabric plies of textile material having' an interlinmg therebetween extending over the fold line thereof, said interlining comprising a sheet of light weight, woven textile material having a weave of between approximately 68 X 72 and 96 x 100 threads to the square inch and having thermoplastic, Waterproof,

cementitious coatings on opposite sides' thereof uniting approximatelyV its entire snrfaces to the adjacent plies including the fold linewl1ereby the collar is flexibly stlffencd at least at the fold line without appreciable .bulkiness [Oficial Gazette June 29, 1937.] 

